Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5: Cosmeceutical Efficacy & Structural Modification Research

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is a synthetic pentapeptide compound with the sequence Ac-βAla-His-Ser-His. Studies have shown that it reduces eye puffiness and dark circles, and delays skin sagging or eyelid drooping^[1-2]. Its mechanism is related to the inhibition of angiotensin-converting enzyme. It produces drainage and decongestion effects, increasing moisture and elasticity in the periocular area, thereby reducing eye puffiness and dark circles. Furthermore, it inhibits glycation, thus preventing abnormal cross-linking of collagen fibers. Therefore, it is widely used in cosmetic formulations, such as eye creams, serums, and anti-aging skincare products.

Modification of amino-acid sequence of Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Peptides have become very important ingredients in cosmetic products, especially in anti-aging preparations, and many of them are already available as research-grade catalog products. In cosmetology, peptides obtained from plants or synthetically in biotechnological processes are used because they have an effect similar to peptides that are produced by our body. In this publication, additional features of the tetrapeptide having the following sequence: Ac-βAHSH-OH (B1), where A-alanine, H-histidine, S-serine, E-glutamic acid, have cosmetic potential which is used in a preparation called Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 (solution of the peptide is a trademark of Lipotec S.A. or its affiliates) and its new derivative: Ac-HAEH-OH (B2) are presented. Scientists say that the presence of a fragmented form of the decorin molecule will help explain the difference between young and mature skin. The gene encoding decorin is probably responsible for the Marfan syndrome. Additionally, decorin can bind TGF-β1, acting as a key regulator of wound contraction and the formation of hypertrophic scars. A company that sells the Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 preparation containing tetrapeptide claims that Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 solution, helps inhibit glycation, vascular permeability, and lipid accumulation, as shown in vitro, suggesting an improvement of the under-eye-region.[3]

We report herein the results of a study on the interactions between Cu2+ ions and two tetrapeptides: a) peptide with sequence Ac -βAHSH-OH (B1), having cosmetic potential which is used in a preparation called Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, and b) a new derivative of B1 with the following sequence: Ac-HAEH-OH (B2). Potentiometric titration was used to study acid-base properties as well as the binding properties of the investigated peptides. Furthermore, the stoichiometry of the peptide complexes with Cu2+ ions was evaluated by the isothermal titration calorimetry and mass spectrometry. Additionally, based on the density functional theory (DFT) calculations, we propose the most likely structures of the complexes of the peptides B1 and B2 with Cu2+ ions. It was found that both peptides are not toxic against human fibroblasts and keratinocytes and form thermodynamically stable complexes with the Cu2+ cation. A modification in the Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 sequence enhances the affinity of the investigated peptides towards Cu2+. The longer distance between histidine residues favors the formation of the main peptide chain in the complex without an excessive backbone tension and also has an impact on the stability of formed complexes.

Protective and Anti-Aging Effects of 5 Cosmeceutical Peptide Mixtures

Skin aging usually leads to the excessive deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix, loss of antimicrobial function, loss of skin barrier function, and a series of inflammatory processes. Bioactive peptides have been widely used in cosmetics due to their protective effects on skin and efficient absorption. In this study, 5 functional cosmeceutical peptides were tested on their individual and mixed activities to detect a suitable anti-aging and protective formula from our experiments. After the individual activity test, the optimal concentration is 200 μg/mL of carnosine for the superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity, 200 μg/mL of GHK peptide for the hydroxyproline (HYP) content activity, 100 μg/mL of acetyl tetrapeptide-5 for the angiotensin-converting enzyme 1 activity, 400 μg/mL of hexapeptide-11 for the HYP content activity, and 400 μg/mL of acetyl hexapeptide-3 for the catecholamine content activity. One of the cosmeceutical peptide mixtures (carnosine + acetyl tetrapeptide-5 + hexapeptide-11 + acetyl hexapeptide-3) significantly reduced the intracellular malondialdehyde and hydroxyl free radical contents and increased the HYP and human elastin contents as well as the enzymatic activities of SOD and glutathione peroxidase. Our study suggests that this formula of cosmeceutical peptide mixtures could be a promising agent for use in anti-aging and protective cosmetics.[4]

References

[1] Erratum: The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside [Corrigendum].[J]. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2023, 16: 1855-1856. DOI:10.2147/CCID.S430231.

[2] VARADRAJ VASANT PAI; Pankaj S; Prasana Bhandari. Topical peptides as cosmeceuticals.[J]. Indian Journal of Dermatology Venereology & Leprology, 2017, 83 1: 9-18. DOI:10.4103/0378-6323.186500.

[3] Dariusz Wyrzykowski . (2022). Modification of amino-acid sequence of cosmetic peptide Eyeseryl enhances the affinity towards copper(II) ion. Polyhedron, 222, Article 115948.

[4]Wu Y, Cao K, Zhang W, Zhang G, Zhou M. Protective and Anti-Aging Effects of 5 Cosmeceutical Peptide Mixtures on Hydrogen Peroxide-Induced Premature Senescence in Human Skin Fibroblasts. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2021;34(4):194-202. doi: 10.1159/000514496. Epub 2021 Apr 13. PMID: 33849044.

You may like